The adventure begins

Tuesday February 1, 2011

Our day began at 5:00am, but we didn't actually get moving until 5:20. I slept through my alarm for those 20 minutes, but was just thankful that it wasn't longer. I guess that is what happens when you stay up until 1am finishing an assignment. I had just over 2 hours to finish getting Maggie and myself ready to go before it was time to embark on phase one of our adventure.

Fortunately, I had some semblance of a list, so was not entirely frazzled by the daunting task before me. Shower, and dress, feed and walk Maggie, no sweat, but my big worry was that last minute packing – laptop and associated bits and pieces, as well as all those personal grooming items that are needed that one last time before departure along with all the things that would really be unfortunate to discover forgotten once thousands of kilometres away (like my bathing suit!).

At 7:25 I started to panic. What if the dog taxi is late, or worse, doesn't come at all? How long should I wait before coming up with plan B? It wasn't even due for another 5 minutes, but of course, that doesn't stop me from a little unnecessary worry. Thankfully, the dog taxi was bang on time and Maggie and I could begin the biggest joint adventure we've ever undertaken. Our driver was great. I wish I had managed to retain his name in my very full brain, but I guess I had plenty of other stuff occupying it at the time. I do recall that he was from Columbia and having just written his citizenship exam, was thrilled at the prospect of being able to travel on a Canadian passport and thus avoid all the complications his Columbian one afforded him, and most importantly, he was very kind and helpful. For some strange reason, the Vancouver airport didn't have any luggage trollies outside at the departure drop-off and after unloading our luggage and Maggie’s crate, our driver went in search of a trolley for us and even loaded it for me.

8:00am.

Now the real fun would begin. After discussing dogs and air travel with a few friends, I knew that I didn't need to put Maggie in the crate until the last minute, so she happily walked beside me through the terminal to the West Jet counter. Of course, she drew attention the whole way. Well, she is a rather striking looking canine (okay, she has very funny looking ears and people can't help but stare). The woman at the check-in counter had no problem dealing with checking in a dog. I did find it interesting that she didn't weigh any of my luggage. She didn't even ask for Maggie's weight. She printed off the appropriate luggage tags and escorted us to the oversize baggage place. Here we had to wait a bit for the baggage handler. After a few minutes of standing and waiting, the CATSA security agent asked if I needed anything from my checked bag, because he would be happy to send it on ahead for me. I said I was going to put Maggie's leash and choke-chain in it after she was crated. He told me that I could put that in my carry on luggage. I was rather surprised, as Maggie's choke-chain is no dainty piece of jewellery, so I asked him if he was certain, and he said yes. So, he loaded my suitcase on the conveyer belt and said that Maggie and I could go sit down and he would come and get us when the baggage handler arrived to take Maggie. Off we went and about 15 minutes later, it was show-time. The security agent did his thing with Maggie's crate to ensure she wasn't a suicide bomber and then I gave the command, cwts, and in she went, showing off just how well trained she is (when she wants to be). We said our goodbyes and then it was time for me to go do my own thing with security.

As I was standing in line at security, I remembered that I had loose change in my pocket then had that fleeting thought that I should be sure to remove it before proceeding through the metal detector. Well, that thought went the way of the name of our dog taxi driver. I walked through the metal detector expecting to hear nothing, just as I have done for every flight I have ever taken in my adult life. Bells and whistles and flashing lights. WTF? Oh yeah, that damn change. So, out comes the change, and the security agent comes tome with the magic wand that makes “you have metal” sounds where no metal exists. While it went off with each and every rivet in my jeans and the metal bits in my bra (no surprise), it hallucinated at my left elbow and consistently went off. The agent would feel my elbow, nothing there, use the wand, it would go off, she would feel again. This went on for about 4 tries (I was ready to take off my fleece sweater so she could see my nekkid elbow) before she decided that there really wasn't anything there. It sure had me confused, because, unless I have been secretly equipped with some metal device in my elbow (great, maybe it is time for a tinfoil hat), I am pretty sure that elbow is all mine and all skin and bone.

My adventure through security wasn't done yet. They had found something suspicious in my carry on bags. Given I was travelling to France for a significant period of time and wouldn't be holding down a job, taking my oboe and English horn made sense as I would have time to play and perfect my reed making. Most of my reed kit was in my checked bags because it contains sharp knives, but I wanted to ensure that anything that would be difficult, very expensive or time consuming to replace in France should go into a clear bottomed plastic box in my laptop bag. That included 5 spools of thread (because the good stuff is no longer made and I didn't want to risk losing any portion of my lifetime supply), my shaper tips (which would have to be replaced from the USA at a cost of about $600) and about $500 worth of cane (yes, it is grown very near where we are in France, but I already had this and why risk having to buy more). Of all the things in my carry on that I expected could be questioned, choke-chain and leash, shaper tips,even my instruments, the last thing I thought would be of concern was my cane. So I got to the other side of the x-ray machine and was asked of the laptop bag if it was mine. The agent pulled out the box of reed stuff and I asked if I could open it for her as some of the contents were fragile. She had no problem with this (thankfully I was not at US security, as I hear that they won't allow you to touch your bags until they clear you) and I opened the box ready to show her the shaper tips and explain their purpose when she picks up a baggie of cane and shows it to the x-ray operator. They both kind of had this “is that all” reaction and then I was on my way. This little experience, I packed away in my brain for future reference.

I hit the aprés-security Starbucks to grab a café-mocha in my travel mug for the journey and then settled at the gate. Before too long, I heard the preboard announcement. Those with small children, a pet travelling aboard, or those that just require extra time can come to the gate counter. What a surprise to me – just having a pet on board entitled me to get on early. At the counter, I asked the gate attendant if someone could confirm for me that Maggie was aboard. He told me that the seat I was assigned should let me see her being loaded, but he would check before take-off and let me know. Unfortunately, this is the only part where West Jet dropped the ball – no one confirmed for me that Maggie was aboard. Fortunatly, I was in my seat early enough that I did manage to see the baggage handlers very gently load her on the plane, so that was one worry off my mind.

My stomach was a mess. This was the most stressful flight I had ever taken in my life. All over concern about how Maggie was coping. Every time the plane banked for a turn, a little bumpiness from turbulence and I all I could think about was Maggie. Truth be told, I was on the verge of tears through most of the flight, dreading what state Maggie would be in upon arrival.

We arrived in Montreal on time and I went to the West Jet attendant in the baggage hall to enquire about where to retrieve the lovely Maggie-dog. I was informed that the oversize baggage carousel was being repaired and was currently in pieces, so all baggage was coming in on the regular carousel, but she would come with me because she was required to be there for the unloading of the animals. So, off we went. First off was a few pieces of luggage, then the cat that was Maggie's travelling companion. Then we hear a shout. It's too big, it won't fit. Maggie's crate was too big to fit through the regular carousel. Now what? There was a door between the Oversize carousel and the regular one, but due to security regulations, it hasn't been opened since 2006. After much discussion with the baggage handlers, it was decided that the West Jet attendant had to go upstairs to the place where pets are normally dropped off for departure to take possession of Maggie and then bring her back down to the baggage hall in arrivals for me. This took about 15 minutes, and my suitcase arrived during that time, so we were good to go the minute she arrived to me. The attendant told me that if I had a leash, I was welcome to take Maggie out of her crate, which I did. Maggie was very, very happy to see me.

We walked through the terminal to the taxi stand where we had to wait until the attendant could get us a taxi that would accept a dog and had room to carry the crate. Whilst we were waiting, Maggie had herself a nice big pee. It never ceases to amaze me how this dog almost always stands down-hill from where she is peeing. The ride to Francis and Josee's was uneventful (other than the taxi driver exclaiming his displeasure at Maggie's shedding – even though she was lying on the floor, and not on his seats), but once we got there, I was expecting to pay the $48 on the meter, only to be told that there was a $15 surcharge for having a mini-van. I only had a $50 and a $20, so I gave those to the driver expecting at least the $5 change. He didn't offer and by this point I just wanted to be done with him even though I am sure he was pulling a fast one.

I dragged all my luggage and Maggie’s crate to Francis and Josee's door and rang the bell (the driver just dumped my stuff on the sidewalk and left). The buzzer to unlock the door sounded and as I stepped into the foyer, there was Josee. Our very first meeting – Ramsay put out the call to see if anyone in Montreal would be willing to take in a weary traveller and her dog and Francis and Josee were the first to offer. Josee immediately made me and Maggie feel most welcome. After a much needed cup of tea, I took Maggie for her first walk in cold and snowy Montreal. Maggie sniffed and peed with great frequency and we even managed to come across a park to walk through. Maggie didn't manage too terribly long in the cold. Before I knew it, she was limping on her front paw and we made a bee-line back to Francis and Josee's. Fortunately, Maggie had managed to have 2 poops and I found rubbish bins en route. I finally met Francis once he got home from the job he was finishing, we all had a cup of white tea with ginger and lychee (very, very yummy) and I was ready for bed – around 10pm.

Wednesday was fairly low-key and uneventful. I woke up very early, but eventually managed to fall back to sleep until 10:30. First order of the day after getting dressed, take Maggie out for a walk as I knew she must be ready. It had snowed quite a bit over night and was still snowing when we left for our walk. We only got halfway down the block before Maggie started limping again. She took care of enough business that I figured she would be fine for a couple of hours and we would go out again. Maggie had many mini walks through the day and I was definitely wishing I had over-ruled Ramsay when he said she wouldn't need booties for Montreal. Oh well, it did seem a bit of an expense for just a couple of days of cold snowy weather. The more we went out, the longer she seemed to be able to manage. Josee made a really fabulous chicken dish served with rice and asparagus. Happily, my tummy had settled down enough to eat and enjoy it. One last walk for Maggie and then 9pm brought the series premier of 19-2 (dix neuf – deux), a French language cop show that Francis worked on as a prop master. I really enjoyed it (even though I couldn't understand most of what was being said), and it was really cool to see Francis' name in the credits. I especially liked the big grin from Francis at the time. Once 19-2 was over, it was time for sleep.

Another morning of early wake-up, but falling back to sleep until 10:30 and our day progressed pretty much as the previous one, except, I had to repack and get ready to leave. Francis very kindly drove Maggie and me to the airport and then our adventure would really begin.


Thursday February 3, 2011 4pm

We went to the Air Transat counter and getting Maggie sorted was a wee bit more of an ordeal. I had to fill out a sticker form with my contact information, confirm that I had all the necessary papers for Maggie to travel as well as when she had her last meal and water and when she would be due for more. Not a huge deal, but calculating the meal/water thing took some doing (taking time changes into account). The check-in agent weighed my suitcase and sent it on its way. I put my red duffel on the scale for her to put the cabin tag on it (as I was carrying it on with me) and I noticed that my bag was 3lbs overweight. I pulled it off quick before the agent noticed.

We were about 45 minutes early for dropping Maggie off at the security/oversized baggage place, so we went and sat down at a table and I had a skype chat with Alyson. In the meantime, Maggie again drew attention of passers-by. My favourite encounter was an entire flight crew where she was totally sucking up to the flight attendants, but shied away from the captain – must have been the hat. Security this time was more thorough for Maggie's crate. I had to pull her bed and all of her toys out to be x-rayed before she could go in. Again, no big deal. What did have the security agents impressed was how Maggie went almost straight into her crate (she balked once because it was on a trolley and it shifted as she tried to jump in the first time). She is a trouper.

I trundled off to security and retrieved my previous security experience from my brain and ensured that I had no money in my pockets and pulled my box of reed kit out of my laptop bag and put it in the bin separately. I made it through the metal detector with no problem, but again, there was questions about the contents of that box. Same issue, the reed cane. Once I opened it, showed them the cane and explained the purpose, I was on my merry way. Double reed players, be aware, dog leashes and choke-chains are no problem, but gouged reed cane requires closer inspection.

I was a good hour early for boarding, so I grabbed a tea and a veggie wrap to eat and fired up the laptop and had a skype chat with Sue. I love free airport wifi. It appears that travelling with a pet does not garner special treatment on Air Transat – not that I expected it. The West Jet experience was just a pleasant surprise. I did ask the gate attendant about confirming that Maggie was aboard and she said she would do it. Again, I was disappointed, as no one bothered to put my mind at ease and this time, I wasn't even in a place where I could see her being loaded. It was hard to spend 6 ½ hours on a plane, heading half way around the world not knowing for sure if my dog was going to arrive with me. Other than this worry (I wasn't as concerned about turbulence and banking turns anymore), the flight was relatively uneventful. The hardest part was the couple next to me managed to sleep for the whole flight except for meals and given I was in the window seat, I was reluctant to wake them to get to the bathroom. Needless to say, by the time the flight was almost over, I was busting. Fortunately, near the end of our flight, they were both awake at the same time long enough that I could disturb them for a bathroom break. Our flight was half an hour early, despite leaving about 15 minutes late.

I called Ramsay from the line-up for passport control and he was 1 train stop away from the airport. The line moved very quickly despite only having two immigration officers on duty. Not surprising considering that the officers were basically taking the passports and stamping them with hardly a look to confirm that the passport photo matched the owner. Given all I had read about the bureaucracy and paperwork involved in obtaining a French Visa, I was shocked to see such a lax attitude for letting people in the country. Oh well, I wasn't going to complain, the line was moving quickly and my turn was no exception. I handed over my passport, he stamped it, I left. Onward to the baggage hall. I had expected Maggie arrive at least shortly after the baggage began trickling in, but this was not the case. I watched for my suitcase and kept an eye out for Maggie. No sign of my case, but eventually, I heard a loud sliding noise and when I turned to look, I saw someone pushing Maggie’s crate along the floor and speaking to some people in a booth. I turned my trolley around and hightailed it to where Maggie was and the poor girl sure was happy to see me. The man in the booth helped me load Maggie onto my cart and we made our way back to the carousel. I immediately texted Ramsay to let him know I had Maggie, as I figured he would be concerned. I considered taking Maggie out of her crate whilst we waited for my suitcase, but thought that it would be better to clear customs first. We waited what seemed like an eternity for my bag to finally appear. I am sure it must have been one of the very last to be unloaded. Now that my trolley was fully loaded, it was time to go through customs. I looked at the signs...nothing to declare and items to declare. Considering all the hoops I had jumped and paperwork I had obtained for bringing Maggie to Europe, I figured she required declaring, so off I went. There was a customs guy standing there with his head bowed and his eyes closed. I stood for a moment and then said, “excusez moi.” It took a few moments, but finally, the man slowly opened his eyes and lifted his head to look at me. I pointed to the crate and said “mon chien?” The man gave me this exasperated look like I was an idiot and pointed at the nothing to declare area. I pointed in confirmation and he nodded and said “oui.” I shrugged and walked out past the other 3-4 customs agents without so much as a second glance and there waiting on the other side of the door was Ramsay. The first thing we did was get Maggie out of her crate. She didn't make as much of a noisy fuss as I had feared she would, but she was definitely a very happy doggie.

After a few minutes of getting bearings and figuring a plan of action, we decided that I would wait at arrivals with Maggie and Ramsay would go get the rental car. I took Maggie outside for a pee (the weather was much warmer than Montreal, although still pretty chilly and I was glad of my 3 outer layers) and of course, she stood down hill again. Well, we've never considered Maggie to be the smartest dog there ever was, but she sure is nice. Once she had taken what seemed like the world's longest pee, we went back into the arrivals hall, where Maggie was distracted by the birds that were flying about in there.

Finally Ramsay called to say that he had the car and was coming to get us. We loaded up the car but we couldn't load the crate in such a manner that we could travel Maggie in it and keep the dog hair to a minimum. Fortunately, I had the forethought to pack a lightweight fleece blanket for just such an occasion and once we had the car loaded, we spread the blanket over the part of the car where Maggie would have access. Armed with directions from the Michelin map site, we were off knowing we had a huge, long drive ahead of us.

One of the things Ramsay hadn't managed to figure out with the car was how to adjust the side mirrors,so he asked me to try and figure out how to do this during our drive. I opened the glove box to get the car's manual. Admittedly, my French is not good at all, but I can usually stumble my way through written French and figured I should be able to figure out the mirrors, so imagine my surprise to find that the entire car manual was in Spanish. Clearly that wasn't really going to work. Then I looked at the centre console and thought back to the time Ramsay's parents needed to tow a trailer and so swapped their Audi for my mini-van and I couldn't figure out how to adjust the mirrors. I tried calling Bob and Louise, but couldn't get through. Then I remembered Lynne had an Audi and she patiently talked me through where to find the control and how to work it. Back to France and the rental car. It wasn't too terribly long before we turned into a rest stop, knowing Maggie was really going to need to stretch her legs and a drink of water as well an opportunity to eat. Once that was taken care of, we set to the task of figuring out the side mirrors. This is where I dubbed the car K-9. One minute Ramsay was happily adjusting mirrors, the next minute the whole mirror mounts were spinning like K-9's ears in Doctor Who we laughed. Every time Ramsay tried to adjust the mirrors a little more, they spun and every time they spun, Ramsay and I laughed harder. It wasn't until later in the journey when the turn indicator lights wouldn't stay turned off that I dubbed the car Christine. After a few hours, we stopped for food and had to figure out the best way to deal with Maggie. As long as she stayed in the back on the blanket, the car would be relatively free of her fur, but Ramsay and I both knew that Maggie would move to the the unprotected front seats at the first available opportunity. There was nothing for it, the best thing to do would be take her out of the car and tie her up near the entrance to the restaurant. We ate quickly, seated at table where we could keep our eyes on Maggie. Just before we left, Ramsay went to grab some coffee to keep him awake during the drive. He returned without his coffee. He had plugged 2 Euros into the machine with no coffee being dispensed before someone told him that he had to buy tokens to use in the machine. That was just too much for Ramsay at by this point. Fortunately, I had chosen a bottle of Coke for my beverage, and while it didn't have the caffeine kick of French coffee, it was better than nothing.

The downside to eating was that afterward, I had trouble fighting my exaustion and knowing that Ramsay was also battling sleepiness, I felt compelled to try and stay awake. I did finally give in to the all consuming drowsiness, but would only snatch 15 minutes here and there. After Ramsay's credit card was declined at the first toll, we were a little panicked as the tolls are expensive and we had limited ready cash. We needed fuel and Ramsay really needed coffee, so we decided that we would stop before the next toll and use my Canadian cell phone to call Visa to confirm that they hadn't put a block on his card. It was a quick call and they said that all was perfectly fine and that the card hadn't come up as declined. This meant that maybe the tolls only accepted Carte Bleu. I was concerned because I figured there had to be plenty of tourists driving the toll roads who have foreign credit cards and not a lot of cash on them. Anyway, once Ramsay went to pay for the diesel, his card wouldn't work, but after wiping it on his trousers, it worked fine. We figured it must have had something on it that kept it from working properly in the machine. Happily, it worked just fine at the next toll and we were much less stressed.

We finally hit Antibes about 8:30pm and Ramsay did a stellar job of negotiating the city and getting us to our flat without the use of a map or SatNav. We blocked the gate to our building's parking lot (we don't have a key yet) to unload and head upstairs and then Ramsay went to find a parking spot on the street somewhere. Happily, parking karma was with him and a space opened up two cars away. Once we were unloaded and parked, Ramsay went to get us Chinese food from the take-away around the corner. A nice hot shower to wash away the almost 24 hours of travel and we were asleep by 10:30pm.